Brewery of the Month – September

Pivovar Kamenice – 2 náměstí Československé armády, 394 70 Kamenice nad Lipou

Whilst on tour across the Czech Republic this year we had one particular stop in mind – Kamenice nad Lipou. The small town lies in the stunning region of Vysočina, not far from Pelhřimov. Now, if you look up the town on Wikipedia it will tell you the most important sight is the castle. However, we can tell you that there is also a very impressive brewery there…

The castle

After tasting the fine beer back in Brno we quickly determined that a trip to Kamenice was necessary. The brewery itself is vast and imposing. Located in the centre of the town close to the castle, the building was reconstructed after many years of inactivity: the beer finally began flowing again in 2016 – the first time since 1947.

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We made the first of of two stops on the way to Ceske Budejovice, picking up a couple of bottles for the trip and taking some photos of the grand interior. On the way back we opted to sit in the expansive beer garden and soak up the summer sun with a perfect 12 degree lager. We also ordered the goulash, which while visually as spectacular as the brewery itself, didn’t quite have the bite you want from a Czech-style goulash. For the lager though, it is hard to find a brewery that rivals it.

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Brewery of the Month – July

While we are of course bound to the finesse of Czech brewing traditions, we do enjoy trips across borders to see what’s brewing in other lands. With a free weekend ahead of us we decided to travel to Slovakia’s capital city of Bratislava to see how many breweries we could manage, and to give you our second Slovak brewery post this year.

In fact, we actually managed 5 breweries but our first stop was our priority – we wanted to spend some of the warm summer day sat on the calm lull of the Danube (Ralph’s favourite river), at the Dunajský pivovar.

The most immediately striking thing about the Dunajský pivovar is simply that it is on a boat. Sitting on the deck, enjoying the morning sun with a fresh lager brewed on the flow of one of Europe’s most stunning rivers, is a gratifying experience. We did try to pick the perfect table but were immediately asked to move as there were only two of us and it was a big table. So we were shifted to a small table round the corner. No problem – we were still sat staring at the river and city before us.

Introduced in 2014 by it’s older brother, the Patrónsky pivovar, the Dunajský brewery sits on the Petržalka side of Bratislava, and doubles up as a ‘botel’. It also has a restaurant offering taditional food. We were only here for the beer though, and as neither of us are fans of the ‘tmavy’ (dark) beer we went for the standard 11,5 degree lager instead. Although perhaps not the best beer in the city, it certainly wasn’t bad, and a cold brew was certainly much welcomed on this fine summer’s day. The restaurant itself is a bit posh for our simple tastes, and the service was a relaxed pace, but the atmosphere of the Danube is second to none.

Brewery of the month – June

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Lanius Brewery – Mierové námestie 20, 911 01 Trenčín, Slovakia

A couple of months ago, I was on a jaunt around Slovakia and decided to make my journey to Senec (to watch Wales U19s!!) a little bit easier, I took a 4hr train from Kosice to Trencin. Now, it’s a town I know well – I’ve been to the Pohoda music festival a few times, it’s got the greatest football floodlights in the country, Klub Luc is where it’s at for evening entertainment and the castle, built on top of a steep rock is one of the finest in Europe… To add to that, it now has a brewery and Lanius is June’s pivovar of the month.

They brew their various kinds of beer at house number 20 on the main square, naming the brewery after the first owner of the house, a certain Thomas Lanius, who lived there in 1649…I am not sure if it’s any coincidence, but Lanius is Latin for Butcher.. and old Tom was indeed a butcher… What are the chances…

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To provide more background to breweries in the town, there was a time in 17th century when Trencin had 40 breweries, many of them private. Now for a size of the city, that seems a few too many and with the onset of the industrial revolution of the 19th century, these were replaced by large-scale production in the modern breweries close by. By the end of the century, the last brewer had brewed his last beer in Trencin…until Lanuis produced their first beer in 2014.

After taking in the AS Trencin v Zilina game, I made my way straight to bar for some beer and nosh and I was not disappointed. Lanius usually have a selection of beers on tap and an excellent choice of food on the menu. Conservatively, I went for the 12 degree Bohemian Lager, but in hindsight I should have gone for the tasting tray as previously in the day someone had recommended their Mandarina IPA…there is always a next time.

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As with all Microbreries the prices are a little bit more than the euro you could pay for a Corgon or Saris, but there’s a lot of love that goes into making craft ales and Lanius have added that to their various beers. So, if you are in Trencin and looking for a nice place to spend the evening, we highly recommend a visit to the brewery and grab some food if you feeling a bit peckish. You won’t be disappointed.

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Brewery of the Month – May

Moritz – Nešverova 2, Olomouc

Olomouc is one of the most striking, and most historic, cities in Moravia. Famous for its baroque and Gothic architecture, it has more fountains than you can shake a stick at and boasts its very own astronomical clock to rival Prague – a clock which, in one last act of spite, was all but destroyed by the retreating German force at the end of the Second World War. Interestingly, the clock was reconstructed in the 1950s in the Socialist Realist style and features proletarians rather than saints. Now there is some debate about whether to maintain this style or revert it to its original form.

This fine student city is also home to a number of quality breweries, and after working up a thirst touring the town’s monuments it is worth taking a stop. As with every visit to Olomouc we made a quick visit to Svatováclavský pivovar on the way in to the town centre. You can’t really go wrong with this place – friendly service, great beer and it’s the place to come if you fancy a beer spa. However, on this trip we had a different brewery in mind.

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Klobasas Michal and Wingy demonstrating the beer spa at Svatováclavský pivovar

We made one more stop before our final destination – the minipivovar Riegrovka Steakhouse. Certainly not a bad choice of beers but the polished interior and awful music meant it was not our kind of boozer. The steaks do look pretty good though…

After some detours we finally made it to our goal – the Moritz minipivovar. This is certainly a favoured option if you are looking for some traditional Czech food, especially involving some of the locally made tvarůžky cheese. An acquired taste for some, but when you do acquire a preference for this smelly, sticky number there is no going back. The basement pub certainly has a rich, traditional atmosphere, and it’s a nice place to sit and have a drink by the brewing tanks. Our soups were a little slow arriving but that did mean we had time to try full pints of both the 11 and 12 degree lagers. The 11 was a particularly good choice. Moritz doesn’t have a huge range of beer options but the quality is worth stopping for, and moreover so is the food. It’s definitely on our list of places to return to next time we’re in Olomouc.